Finally in Kazakhstan
Mood:  a-ok

Well folks I finally made it to the big K. Had 10 days of drama waiting around in Chelyabinsk, Russia that put me behind schedule so I took a train yesterday , arriving here this morning. The story Cody left on the last blog covered the high points but the details would have made a good tv movie. Met Demetri and his traveling partner Gille from France, traveling in two Landrovers on their way to Mongolia.Broke transmission on Demetri's truck due to the Paris mechanic they trusted not putting enough  oil in it. Made it 5000k's to the Landrovers credit.  I serviced it up and after a night of camping out and partying with a group of Russians out in the bush, we limped into Chelyabinsk.

They had a contact at the Catholic church there which turned out to be pretty nice, with a nice garage and a nice place for us to stay. After a day at the Landrover dealer, deciding against a partial rebuild since I was already pulling needle bearing out of the muck, and a 1 1/2 month wait for a new transmission and/or parts, we were going to just serviced it up again and hope Demetri could make it back to at least Poland where his insurance would tow the truck back to Paris.Then the local mechanic jumps in and promises us a blackmarket "mafia" new tranny for 2/3rds the price and here in two days from Kazakhstan. The fathers at the church vouched for this guy and I said I'd stick around the required 3-4 days to receive and swap the part. Then it turned dark.

After the euros exchanged hands the mechanic wouldn't come to work or answer his phone. When the fathers contacted the police after 3 days the guy shows up, tells a tale of trouble and promised the part will be here in three days. Gille leaves for Mongolia, I already have the truck apart, ready to drop the gearbox. So we wait. on and on it goes. No contact, our woman who's the translator mysteriously doesn't understand english when hard answers are demanded. We suspect we're being played by everyone but the fathers. This whole thing playing itself out on the grounds of this church, with happy nuns and children and volenteers running around. We set drop dead timelines and each time something would occur to string us along for another day.

Finally the guy shows up one morning with some cash, a story of how the tranny made it to the border and it was the wrong model (which we kept trying to ascertain since he hadn't in our presence written down the VIN code, "don't worry I know what I'm doing") So on the 28th I put it all back together, next day we put the camper back on and Monday 6/30 I hit the train station and Demetri's going to try and hobble back to Paris thru Moscow in 4th gear. Say a prayer for him, the best parts of the mainshaft forward bearing are in a plastic bag. thru it all I knew I was blowing time but the challenge if we could pull this rabbit out of the hat and he could continue on kept me in it. Also hanging out, and going thru it all with Demetri, a first class guy who's adventure got cut short.  We'd sit around every night drowning our sorrows and combing thru the latest days events. Hey at least I have a couch to sleep on in Paris!

Kazakhstan is quite different than the European/Russian landscape I've been traveling thru. More prairie like, you can tell it gets hot here. The people are a mix of Russians and the Kazaks, a blended bunch where some look very Chinese and many others who you'd swear your looking at an American Indian. Astana is crazy! Soon as I left the station I'm in traffic where everyone is constantly honking at each other. They must not have much regard for traffic signals, every major intersection has a policeman directing and even then all 4 directions cars are honking at this guy to let them go.They even honk at me as I'm tooling along, I just give them the finger but apparently they don't know what it means.

I wonder what's going to happen next. tomorrow I'll head east, try to put on some good time and hopefully just spend about 20 days here before hitting China. If anyone ask me if I know a good mechanic I'll refer them to my brother in Escondido. Today outside the station I met Tim,  a cultural exchange worker from the US state dept. The first American I've talked to since leaving Holland. Never thought about it until we met.  Sorry about the pics, but loading them is a frustrating process on these systems they have here. I'll try to do a few today. The wheels keep a rolling, I'm feeling good and I'll talk to you next time. Be cool.        Brian

Back to the Wrenches...
Mood:  a-ok
Topic: Via Cody

Hello all, this is Cody, Brian’s son. Brian is in Chelyabinsk, which is about 150k North of Kazakhstan. I had thought he was in Kazak already as I had told some of you, but he is not. He is helping a French guy, Demeitri, fix the transmission in his land rover. He was pedaling by and started to help, now he is waist-deep in the project. He has been waiting on a black market transmission to install, but that takes time. He says it should arrive today, (6/24) and he is going to work non-stop until it is done and then he will leave. He says that he knows it sounds silly and he could “blow this guy off and tell him he’s on his own, but I said I’d help so now I’m going to follow thru  any time I’ve lost he’ll give me a ride forward so I’ll be back on schedule.” He says that he “won’t be fixing everyone’s car I happen upon, many good people have been good to me on this ride so I figure I’m paying back with a good deed good for my karma account.”

Brian has been having trouble posting a blog, as the one computer he has access to is in a different language layout and is confusing. He is being put up in a flat on the grounds of a Catholic Church. He says the father is really nice and has been feeding him. Overall, he is safe and sound. He will post a blog himself as soon as he is able to, signing off… Cody.

Stirred, not shaken
Mood:  a-ok

Just a quick update from Saratov, Russia. Was on the verge of entering Kazakhstan when the Russian border Patrol decided I was a national threat and rerouted my plans after a half a day in custody getting the third degree. They'd rather be safe than sorry so they ran thru my life story and looked thru all my things. That's the short story, it got quite intense at times but inside I was laughing at the Soviet treatment,  should make a great tale. "Take your hands off me you filthy ape!" I'm having a difficult time getting my photos to load so have patience, I'm going to have to break the files down and have some quality time on a fast computer to get it right. so I'm still in Russia, heading for the Kazaks again and we'll see if they let me in at a different border point. Besides the police the folks here are pretty cool but it's very tough for simple communications at times. It'll get worse before it gets better and I'm still full of beans. The Russians thought they had a tough interrogation team, little did they know I've done battle with Ron King!! (inside joke for my United friends) Take care everyone and hope to get home in October.  Brian 

Russian Riding
Mood:  a-ok
I'm currently in Bickova Russia about 150k north of Volgograd. So far Russia has been a great experience. Everyone here is real nice. In Volgograd I spent two days at Telman's house, one of a group of motorcyclist I'd met a few days earlier. Telman is a very successful buisnessman in the city and I was truly living in style there. He showed me all around the city and refused to let me pay for anything. His wife and two sons treated me like a king. I am still amazed at the hospitality I have encountered so far. His motorcycle club friends took me out one night to their clubhouse in an old weapons bunker and treated me to a banya. After leaving Volgograd I went about 70 k up the Volga river and stopped at a small cafe. Wound up drinking and eating most of the night with the regulars and camped out back. Again, they wouldn't let me pay a cent. The folks here are first class. I'm going to be heading east into Kazakhstan, arriving at the border in about 3 days. No more big cities now until Astana in central K. If my updates or contacts get a bit scarce it's because it's getting tougher to find an internet location. Hey I'm almost to Kazakhstan. This journey is on schedule and no problems so far. I cannot wait to arrive in San Francisco though, I miss everyone alot and I appreciate everyone's good wishes. Take care and keep pulling for me, I'm living on some pretty good luck so far.  Brian

Cheatin'in the Ukraine
Mood:  a-ok
Well folks I made it to Kiev, the largest city and capital of Ukrainia and an unbelievably beautiful city. Some awesome monuments and a thousand plus year old church complex that looks over the park like setting of the city. Waiting at a red light I met Gennardi, saw him again a few blocks later and next thing you know we were heading over to his parents flat across the river. They were very nice people who welcomed this complete stranger into thier home no problem. Next day Gennardi showed me all around Kiev and since he was heading back to his home in Donets'K in eastern Ukraine I decided to jump on the train too and "cheated" 400 miles east. The train trip alone was a cool experience, everyone packed into a sleeper car, the bike all apart and lashed down at the back of the car. Staying now at his place with his wife Natasha and college aged son Anthony. Their generosity is truly a nice thing to be a part of. Probably kick it here for a day, having at this point of the trip to plot a slightly different course thru Russia thru Volgograd and into Kazakhstan a bit furthur south than planned but more . Knew all along at some points I'd have to rely on the locals knowledge and their concern was I was heading into a part of Kazakhstan a little too remote. all is going well, the toughest part of the trek is still ahead of me from the Volgograd area all the way into eastern China. Getting good maps here and plotting the the plan. I'm having a little difficulty at the moment uploading my latest pics but perhaps by the time you read this I'll have them up. Thanks for checking in.  Later,   Brian 

Chillin' in Ukrania!
Mood:  a-ok
Well it's hard for me to believe I've pedaled into the Ukraine. It has been such an incredible journey so far and slowly making my way into the former Soviet world of Ukrainia has been the most amazing yet. I'd been to Russia for a week back in the early 80's and to see how much the people here are digging a bit more cultural freedom now since things began to change in the early 90's is a great feeling. Overall it's quite a bit more tattered than most Americans would like but their making the best of what they have.  Ukraine has been is busy jumping thru all the hoops to get accepted into the European Union, they still have a way to go but their future is looking good. The people here are just as nice and welcoming as any I've encountered along the way. Here in the fairly large city of Zhytomer, about a days ride W of Kiev (the largest city) I still get stares walking down the street, like they can tell from a block away I'm not from these parts. The stares turn to smiles,handshakes, beers and smokes as they hear about how I arrived. I rolled off the ferry in Holland about a month ago and since leaving the Rotterdam area I've only taken a day off in Poland (the last update). I'm hanging here for 2 days to rest the legs, do a little bike work and food up! The Krivna is about 7 to the Euro so my expenses are going down thankfully (Europe was killin' me). I'm pulling about 50 mile days because the roads are pretty rough. I spent a day heading south to catch the main route across the country and the highway is marginally better, still do alot of riding in the dirt on the side since it's smoother but there's alot more services. Been getting hotel room for about $5-$15 a night and have camped out in a cow pasture once. Horse drawn carts and farm implements are normal,wheezing old 2 strokes with sidecars are popular, the women are beautiful and the guys drink beer all day just walking down the street, how can you not like it? Unlike my last visit years ago, the stores now all have signs and advertising telling you what their selling and everyone has a cell phone (except me).  It truly is to me like being on a different planet, the alphabet is similar to ours but you have to substitute symbols to figure out the meaning. Like playing a word game in the newspaper. The bad stories I've heard about this place are so far unfounded, people are folks where ever you go. I suppose like anywhere you could put yourself into a trouble if you wanted to. Hope the awesome luck I've enjoyed so far holds out. The weather is been fine for the most part. From here I'll make it thru Kiev and then start heading N into Russia, I found my best bet is sticking to the main routes just to save the bike. I've just put on the bigger tires I brought along but continue to be amazed at the beating the thing takes and still is working good. Word is the road gets worse in Russia but better in Kazakhstan.  I'm so far kicking ass on my schedule, feeling great and looking forward to the rest of the trip but I also know that I'll have a new appreciation for everything I left behind. I miss the family and friends alot and ripping down the trail on the dirtbike. Thanks to all of you (old friends and new) for checking in and I should be able to update again after reaching Russia in another week. Be cool and see you soon   Brian

News from the East
Mood:  a-ok
Topic: Via Cody
Hello everybody, this is Cody, Brian's son. He may not be able to make to a computer for a while so I thought I would relay an update. Brian is near Lublin, Poland. He is enjoying the local fare including cold fish and sauerkraut. He should be in Ukraine shortly, which he has heard mixed reviews of from road acquaintances. All in all, he is feeling good and wishes he had more time to reply to all of your comments and emails. Keep them coming, he loves to read them from the road.

Poland!
Mood:  a-ok
I'm about half way thru Poland and it's still going ok. Riding thru small villages all day. I'm taking a direct route to the Ukraine so the place 's I pass thru are probably not used to seeing someone like me pas thru. I've learned the "good day" and "hello" etc. in Polish so that helps but ordering food is sometimes comedy. Everyone here is great so far and very helpful. The chance meetings to ask for directions has many times turned into coffe and cake time or a beer and a smoke and a cool visit. The rain has not been bad but even so when it get's too much I duck in somewhere and just meet more people. I'm doing good, the bike is still not giving me any problems so I hope it keeps going this well. I've loaded up some new pics, hope you like them.  Talk to next time from Ukrania.    Brian

Surrounded by Germans......
Mood:  a-ok
Have made it into eastern Germany. The ride across Holland along the bike paths thru the quiet little villages and on top of the dykes was perfect. Sometimes the thought of how far there is to go really hits hard and I miss everyone alot but then you just look at what you're rolling thru and just know you´ll never be this fortunate again. The weather has been holding for me, it' been cold but dry.Have'nt marked all the latest photos but a few are from a gasthaus in Andelst Holland where they gave me a real cheap room (but nice) and had a great blues band plying that nite. Last nite, got hooked up with the guy  Marcel on the recombint bike and stayed at his friends house here in Quidlinberg. Should be in Poland in a few days. So far just good people and nice roads, Having fun and really enjoying this awesome journey. Forgive me for not answering email right away, it's tough getting to a computer. Take care everyone.  Brian

we have taken Holland..
Mood:  a-ok

Sitting in Serini and Jerome Smit's Bakery shop in Shiedam, Holland. Serini is an old friend of my brother Kenneth's. Made it to the UK from Fla. no problem about 4/7. Hung out a week there at me Mum in laws and had a great time with all of Sheree's family. Never to far from a pub in England. Had a great ride to the coast thru small villages. Made the boat to Holland after spending a day in Capt. Fryatt's pub with a bunch of great locals.  Arrived in Holland 4/16 in the am. Short scenic ride to Jerome and Serini's and having such a good time decided to stay an extra day. Very cool to finally be on the continent. Tomorrow heading east. Hopefully I'll be able to upkeep the info along the way. This is only getting better.